At four Durham restaurants that were named to the inaugural Michelin Guide to the American South, chefs and managers say they are feeling the impact with a surge in new customers — and higher expectations.
“We’re being judged harder now, but it’s also brought in many new guests,” said Rocío Aguilar, Little Bull’s general manager.
Little Bull, Nanas, Nikos, and Seraphine, which were tapped for the new guide’s inaugural edition in November, say being included in the guide is a major milestone for their restaurants and for Durham’s culinary scene, bringing a sense of validation for years of hard work.
“I think Durham’s been a hot spot for great food for a very long time,” said Seraphine’s head chef, Christopher Garrett. “I’m glad that we’re starting to get noticed for it.”
Making it onto a Michelin guide — not to be confused with Michelin stars — means a restaurant has passed a series of anonymous inspections by trained culinary professionals. Inspectors visit multiple times, judging the food on quality of ingredients, cooking techniques, flavor harmony, and how well the chef’s personality is reflected in the cuisine.
“The first thing we heard was an email last July that Seraphine was being considered for the inaugural Michelin Guide to the South,” said Megan Weddington, Seraphine’s director of operations. “From what we understand, by the time you get that first email, they’ve already been there at least once.”
Though they appear as everyday diners, Michelin inspectors are trained professionals, often with degrees from top hospitality schools and years of experience in the restaurant industry.
“We never know when they’re coming. They act like regular customers, so we had no idea they were judging our plates or our service,” said Aguilar.
If a restaurant meets Michelin’s standards, it is recognized in the guide as a recommended destination.
Following the announcement, Seraphine’s sales surged 39% compared with the same month the prior year.
“It definitely put us on the radar of someone that maybe didn’t know about us before,” said Weddington.
Garrett described the shift as “champagne problems.”
“We’re very busy – in a great way,” he said.
Beyond business gains, the four restaurants see the recognition as a turning point for Durham’s broader food scene.
“It’s a great opportunity for restaurateurs to come into the area and give these young folks more of an opportunity to shine,” said Garrett. “I think there’ll be a lot more chefs that prevail out of this that deserve recognition.”
“It’s a really cool marker for the future, for sure,” said Weddington. “We’re hoping that this is just kind of scratching the surface of what’s already here.”
Bridget Mills
