“Dry January” has introduced a lot of Durhamites to the pleasures of mocktails. Holding off on the drink is certainly a noble cause, but what if you still want the bar experience? As the month winds down, I set out to find the best zero-proof cocktails — stand-alone drinks that either mimic iconic flavors, or speak for themselves. I found several that could hold their own into February and beyond.
A Little Chile – The Roof at The Durham
Something so appealing about a good margarita is that citrusy-sweet burn. Without tequila, it’s hard to mimic that taste — unless you use another form of heat, as the Roof at The Durham Hotel’s A Little Chile does.
The elevator dropped me off at the hotel’s bustling patio-style bar. I sat down at the bar with the sun on my back and ordered the bartender’s favorite mocktail.
A Little Chile is almost a true margarita and looks like one, too. With no alcohol, the fresno and jalapeno act as a substitute. The heat isn’t overpowering like you might find in a spicy margarita — just the perfect amount to balance out the lime. With added rosemary and coconut water, the flavors are mellowed and deepened. Of the drinks on this list, A Little Chile felt the most boozy, a good complement to the rooftop’s finger-food menu and great views over the city.
Earl Please – Alley 26
Alley 26, a James Beard Awards finalist for Outstanding Bar, was next on my list. With checkered tiled floors and dark wood themes, the place feels like a scene from “The Great Gatsby,” and fast jazz in loud shakers adds to the roar. But the drinks aren’t antique. Bartenders like Ra’fael Davis serve modern twists and delicious combinations on the mocktail menu.
I tried the Earl Please, a tea-based cocktail served over ice. Before sipping, I asked Davis what cocktail the drink was mocking. “It’s just enjoyable by itself,” he said, smoothly stirring another drink. Earl Please had a dark amber color and was topped with bitter cocoa powder to balance out its sweetness. I took a sip.
Picture a subtle sweet tea, but add the sharp punch of ginger and the bittersweetness of passionfruit. It felt like a perfectly balanced tea with the fun factor you want at a bar. Davis was right, it wasn’t trying to be a cocktail, and in the best kind of way. It ended on a lime note with a hint of ginger still on the tongue.
I asked Davis how many zero proof drinks come across the bar. “About half,” he replied as I finished my drink.
The Star Krimson – Arcana
I wandered onward, craving something a bit more dry to counter the sweet tea. That’s when I found Arcana. Hidden behind West Main Street, this bar is meant for those who value the unbeaten path.
After going down the stairs, I found the bartender, Mika Murphy, preparing his chalkboard of announcements for upcoming live performances. I explained my mocktail mission, and soon enough a stylish drink, mystically called the Star Krimson, came across the bar.
The drink took advantage of a mock Campari called Ghia, with bitter botanical notes but finished with a roundedness that the original doesn’t have. The sweetness of the pear nectar balanced the drink subtly, without drowning out the herbal flavors. The strong botanical flavors might throw some off. Combining flavors like pear, sage, and bitter Ghia is something I’ve never experienced, but I loved every sip.
She is the Moment – The Velvet Hippo
I was excited to climb the stairs to the Velvet Hippo Bar & Lounge. “What can I get you?” the bartender, Michael Gonzalez, said as he threw a towel over his shoulder. I asked for a recommendation and a gorgeous drink followed shortly after. The glass looked filled with liquified blackberry jam over ice. Mint sprigs and a dehydrated orange slice added bright colors to the drink. I couldn’t wait to take a sip.
What a treat. For those who love the sweet tartness of blackberries, She is the Moment is for you. The sour tang is balanced by the simple syrup. It’s what you wanted cocktails to taste like as a kid: sweet and powerful. I got bits of ice after each sip, making it feel like a fancy ICEE.
The tartness of the blackberries was a bit overwhelming at times. Also, I don’t have much of a sweet tooth, and this drink is sweet. It’s perfect for a dessert drink, though.
New and old faces, his extensive whiskey collection, our reactions to the snow — conversation with Gonzalez came and went as I finished my drink. I left with my lips stained a bit purple.
Blood Orange Margarita – Kingfisher
Tucked underneath Queeny’s on East Chapel Hill Street lies what truly feels like a speakeasy. Warm lighting bounces off the tiled basement bar. Low table lights add to the mystery. I felt like I needed a password to access some mafia bootlegger. Instead, I sat down and was greeted by the friendly smile of Robert Trimmer — a passionate bartender with a stylish beard.
I asked him for his favorite mocktail, and he gave me the Blood Orange Margarita. It’s a shaken mix of agave, blood orange juice, and lime, topped with lime zest. I feared it was just expensive juice, but I instead got a great, tangy blend of sweet and citrus.
I was curious about the lime zest.
“Retronasal activity,” Trimmer said. I thought it was a college band he must have been in. He explained further, “flavor and taste are different things.” He told me how flavors change when you plug your nose. “Flavor comes from breathing it in,” I heard him say as I smelled the zest with each sip.
The zest added a citrusy depth to the simple flavors underneath. It was tasty and smooth, and hearing about Trimmer’s passion for the tasting experience was inspiring. It’s fitting that he’s a finalist for the Vero Bartender 2025, an annual bartender recipe competition.
I sipped on the drink learning about Trimmer’s side projects of creating non-alcoholic rye whiskey and his praise of his partner, who samples the delicious cocktail ideas he brings home from work. I left pleased with the drink, not so much with the bill.
As someone who orders neutral lagers and the occasional IPA, I was surprised at this mocktail adventure. Trying a menu I haven’t touched was worthwhile, even for the sake of experiencing something new. I plan on sipping these treats all the way to June. The proof is in the lack thereof.
Pictured above: The Earl Please combines black tea, passionfruit, ginger, and lime. Photo by Abigail Bromberger — The 9th Street Journal
