{"id":8490,"date":"2022-10-27T21:16:53","date_gmt":"2022-10-27T21:16:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/9thstreetjournal.org\/?p=8490"},"modified":"2023-03-27T15:59:38","modified_gmt":"2023-03-27T15:59:38","slug":"a-moment-in-durham-in-algeria-baking-is-always-about-community","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/9thstreetjournal.org\/2022\/10\/27\/a-moment-in-durham-in-algeria-baking-is-always-about-community\/","title":{"rendered":"A Moment in Durham: ‘In Algeria, baking is always about community’"},"content":{"rendered":"

On a chilly Saturday morning, Djamila Bakour ties together clusters of white, gold, and pale green balloons to adorn the concrete facade of a shopping center in Southern Durham near Research Triangle Park. She carefully places a trail of chalkboard signs that read \u201cGrand Opening!\u201d in cursive leading to the door of her bakery, La Recette Patisserie.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Bakour darts back inside to check her ovens. A moment later, the smell of freshly-baked ginger blondies wafts out the door, drawing in a crowd. Some people speaking French dash to claim their seats. Others speaking Darja \u2013the Algerian Arabic dialect\u2013 stop to pull one another into tight embraces. They come bearing gifts of rose bouquets and shiny silver baking tins.<\/span><\/p>\n

Still others rush to take their place in line in front of the grab-and-go case, where salted caramel truffles and almond-date crusted lemon tarts stand at attention like soldiers in meticulous rows.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

These desserts represent owner Bakour\u2019s fusion of French and Algerian baking styles, a hallmark of the menu at the new La Re<\/span>cette Patisserie.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

In the middle of the commotion, Bakour bursts through\u00a0<\/span>a set of sliding wooden barn doors that lead from the kitchen, holding a mirror-glazed pistachio praline cake in one hand and a piping bag filled with pink cherry buttercream in the other. She marches by her line of back-counter cakes, ready for their deployment to graduations and weddings. Bakour\u2019s creations are outrageously whimsical, yet sophisticated. Winnie the Pooh sits with his signature honey pot atop a bright yello<\/span>w beehive. A shimmering, ombr\u00e9 periwinkle mermaid tail dives into a waterfall four tiers high. Rapunzel lounges in her bubblegum-pink palace with licorice ivy vines that wind around its towers.<\/span><\/p>\n

To make her creations so quickly to order, Bakour has learned that organization is paramount.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI keep my gen<\/span>erals in line,\u201d Bakour jokes with a playful wink, tilting her head towards her four giant industrial stand mixers.<\/span><\/p>\n

But she balan<\/span>ces this fastidiousness with a penchant for creativity.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019ve never made the same cake twice because I like to consult with my customer before I start designing,\u201d B<\/span>akour says, glancing proudly at her masterpieces. \u201cThe final product is always a unique combinati<\/span>on of<\/span>\u00a0my customer\u2019s feelings and my mood that day. My customers take the cakes home, but on a deeper level the piece of edible art is ours because it represents both of us coming together.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Bakour started maki<\/span>ng cakes as a home baker in 2015, fulfilling wholesale online orders after graduating from North Car<\/span>olina Central University with a degree in food science and nutrition.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI didn\u2019t look that hard for a regular job after college,\u201d she says with a chuckle, kneading croissant dough. \u201cAs an immigrant, I wanted to do my own work\u2014be my own boss doing what I love.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Bakour owes her love for baking to a childhood spent helping her mother bake for family and friends in Algeria. After immigrating with her family to the United States 15 years ago, Bakour finds her confectionery concoctions still help her feel connected to home.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

To reconnect with the source of her passion, Bakour went back to Algeria for six months in 2017 to take a course from a French pastry chef.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cAlgeria\u2014and all of North Africa\u2014is very influenced by French cuisine and culture,\u201d she remarks, while dusting her blueberry cake pops with gold powder. \u201cSo I learned how to blend the disciplined technique of French pastry with flavors from the Algerian tradition I grew up in.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

After returning to Durham, Bakour was determined to bring \u201cArab hospitality\u201d to her adopted city. In order to do so, she knew she needed a retail storefront. Bakour settled on her current two-room space on Meadow Drive because she felt the location was lucky.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cThis place used to be a bakery before they upgraded to a larger space,\u201d she said, wrapping her traditional Algerian \u201csables\u201d cookies. \u201cSo it must have good vibes!\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Thanks to the financial support of her online following, Bakour was finally able to sign a lease on her dream location last November. Her Kickstarter drive raised over $27,000 from 365 donors in the first month it was online.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s crazy\u2014I’m so humbled!\u201d Bakour exclaims, briefly dropping her whisk to press crossed palms to her heart. \u201cI get so emotional every time I think about the support my dream has from the Durham community.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Bakour attributes her bakery\u2019s popularity to her social media strategy. Boasting over 7,000 followers and counting, Bakour\u2019s hyper-stylized Instagram feed nails the platform\u2019s aesthetic through her careful curation of digital pastels and florals.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI love designing every post with my favorite fonts, thinking of captions, and posting pictures I took on my iPhone,\u201d Bakour says, stamping stars onto her batch of strawberry Linzer tortes. \u201cIt\u2019s so great to be able to engage with my customers all the time in the comments section.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Bakour\u2019s authenticity shines in her video reels, in which she pulls back the curtain on how she makes the bakery\u2019s most popular items. With an effervescent smile, Bakour walks her followers through her baking process in minute-long video snippets.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWith my videos, I can speak from the heart,\u201d she says, piping her vanilla bean cookie pie filling. \u201cThat\u2019s where I try to keep it real with my followers.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Before opening her storefront, Bakour had to develop a grab-and-go menu for her future customers. Her sugary multicolored macarons represent the bakery\u2019s classic French influence, whereas her savory <\/span>labaneh zaatar<\/span><\/i>\u2013feta cheese and herb\u2013danishes represent its distinctive Algerian flair.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"To make and sell all her delectable menu items, Bakour had to find staff, including the two women working furiously behind the counter to rearrange a quickly vanishing display of rose petal cupcakes. Behind them is the bakery\u2019s name lit up in orange neon. The sign\u2019s glow illuminates a white and indigo sugar-crystal encrusted geode cake destined for a 17th birthday celebration elsewhere.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI actually hired two of my best friends, Amal and Areba,\u201d she says, motioning to the two women. \u201cThey\u2019re especially great as my farmers\u2019 market team.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

B<\/span>ut the bakery is mostly a family affair. Bakour\u2019s husband Fadi Ghanayem brews pitchers of Algerian mint tea in the kitchen while her parents stamp to-go boxes with her logo. Aunties from the mosque popped by during the day to check on Bakour and lend a hand at the cash register.<\/span><\/p>\n

Once Bakour enlisted her helpers, only one thing was left to do: design the bakery’s interior. Much of the d\u00e9cor includes subtle nods to her heritage, from ornate cushions purchased at markets back home to potted cactus species native to the Sahara. Even the floor\u2014an eggshell and gold marble\u2014is made from the same material as the floor of her grandparents\u2019 house in Algeria.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span>Her hand-painted mural on the east wall transforms the space into an Algerian street scene.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Pictures of her hometown inspired the imagery of the desert sun beating down on small streets that wind through angular architecture. The minimalist painting\u2019s maroon, burnt orange, and salmon pink hues are taken directly from Algerian art, but the palette also makes for a trendy background as customers snap and share selfies.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"\u201cIt’s a blessing to see so many people coming together to support a Muslim woman-owned business,\u201d she gushes, putting the finishing touches on a cake covered in cyan flowers. \u201cI never could have done it alone.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Beyond her in-house and online supporters, Bakour also had the support of established small businesses in Durham. She often goes to husband and wife duo Areli and Leon Grodski\u2014co-owners of the Cocoa Cinnamon caf\u00e9\u2014for business advice. Their partnership is reflected in the bakery\u2019s opera cake, one of her best-sellers. Bakour infuses the icing with Cocoa Cinnamon\u2019s original coffee blend for a local twist on a French classic.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

In the long term, Bakour wants to open more locations and establish a weekly schedule of in-house cake decorating classes. But in the short term, she\u2019s thrilled with the turnout for her grand opening.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cMy French-style training elevates my desserts, but in Algeria, baking is always about community,\u201d Bakour says. \u201cFood is a universal language, and it\u2019s a way for us all to connect during events like today.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"As she speaks, a mother gives her young son a bite of a cookie and a group of teenage girls giggles between bites of pumpkin cheesecake.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI want La Recette Patisserie to be an outlet in which the community can grow and thrive,\u201d Bakour says. \u201cThis is a place by community members for community members. I want people to build good relationships around quality desserts here.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Bakour sets down her spatula for a moment. She notices a group of customers walk in the door. She turns to give them all hugs.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0La Recette Patisserie is located at 4823 Meadow Drive, Suite 115, Durham, and is open 9 a.m.-4 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Pictured (from above)<\/strong>: Customers line up on opening day of La Recette Patisserie; an array of desserts in the grab-and-go case; owner Djamila Bakour stands before a hand-painted mural at her new bakery; a staff member rearranges a pastry display; Algerian cookies typify the bakery’s blend of French and Algerian cooking; Bakour’s husband Fadi Ghanayem serves coffee; Bakour greets customers on opening day. Photos by Gwyneth Bernier \u2014 The 9th Street Journal\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

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